Carpet Buying Guide

Carpet is a favorite for many homeowners – it's soft, comfortable, quick to install and available in a wide range of styles, colors and textures to fit any budget. It does require a little more upkeep than other flooring options to maintain appearance and softness, which is why a professional cleaning at least once a year is recommended. There are however newer stain-resistant varieties that make keeping your carpet looking good much easier than in the past.

Color and Style

Like any flooring material, the color and style of carpet you choose directly affects the overall look and feel of a room.

When choosing color, you need to take into account other elements in the room, such as wall color, window treatments and furniture; look for complimentary colors or contrasting colors. If your walls are a darker color, consider a lighter carpet; if your walls are lighter, consider a darker carpet. Likewise, if your fabrics are full of color, consider a single color carpet; if your fabrics are more neutral, add interest with a multi color carpet.

Most importantly, before making your final decision, bring samples home to look at them in your home. Different types of lighting can dramatically change how you perceive color, and the lighting in a carpet showroom will most likely be quite different than the lighting in your home.

There are many styles of carpeting to choose from. Some have more formal looks; others are more casual. Some are highly textured; others are patterned and tufted. If there's a lot of pattern in your fabrics, stick with a simpler-patterned carpet, so there's not too much going on.

The different styles of carpets include:

• Cut Pile - the most common type of carpet; the yarn/fibers stand up straight from the backing and can be cut at the same length or varying lengths (varying lengths helps hide footprints). It's less resistant to crushing than other types.
• Saxony - cut piles that consist of two or more yarns tightly twisted together and cut at the same length; they have a very soft texture and lend themselves to both formal and informal settings. One downfall is they show every footprint and vacuum mark.
• Textured Saxonies - the same as Saxony except the yarns are cut at different lengths creating texture; this helps to hide the footprints and vacuum marks.
• Velvet/Plush - cut piles that consists of loosely twisted yarns in uniform colors; it's a very luxurious look and feel and works best in formal areas. This style also shows footprints and vacuum marks.
• Frieze - a highly-twisted cut pile carpet with short fibers that tend to curl in different directions; this type of carpet has an informal feel and hides foot prints and vacuum marks making it a great choice for family rooms and high-traffic areas.
• Level Loop Pile - made by weaving even loops of yarn into the carpet backing so no yarn ends are exposed; the higher the loop, the more luxurious and the shorter the loop, the more durable. This type of carpet is ideal for high-traffic areas.
• Multi-Level Loop Pile - similar to Level Loop Pile, the yarn is connected at both ends to the carpet backing but the loop heights vary – usually two to three different heights. This style has a great textural look and is suitable for high-traffic areas.
• Berber Carpet - the same as Loop Pile, but with thicker yarns creating bigger tufts and a more rugged look; it's very durable, although the bigger loops can be more difficult to clean than regular loop piles.
• Cut and Loop Pile - combines cut and looped yarns, creating a variety of surface textures; the different levels and textures can also create patterns. This type of carpet hides dirt and footprints well.
• Carpet Tiles - becoming more and more popular because they're easy to install, and if a tile becomes stained or damaged, it's easy to replace without replacing the entire carpet. Carpet tiles come in all different styles, from cut pile to berber, and many colors offering unlimited design possibilities.

Durability and Performance

A carpet's durability and performance is directly related to three things: the density, the twist and the type of fiber.

Density
The density of a carpet represents the number of individual tufts per square inch; high-density carpet means the tufts are woven closer together, packing in more fibers and making it more durable. The tighter the tufts are makes it harder for dirt and stains to penetrate the carpet. High density often means high price, but it will last longer than a lower-density carpet.

Twist
The twist refers to the number of times the carpet fiber is twisted; a higher number indicates a tighter twist, which results in a more durable carpet.

Fiber
The type of fiber a carpet is made of has a huge impact on its life and durability. The most common carpet fibers are:

• Nylon - about 90 percent of all residential carpeting is made from nylon because it's one of the most durable carpet fibers, and an excellent choice for all traffic areas because of its ability to withstand abrasion and crushing; it's also static-free, as well as stain and mildew-resistant. Nylon is in the middle of the price range - it's more expensive than olefin and polyester, but less expensive than wool.
• Olefin (polypropylene) - the next most common fiber and the least expensive, olefin is strong, easy to clean, highly stain, moisture and mildew-resistant. It's also very colorfast making it ideal for outdoor rugs. A disadvantage is it's easy to crush and matte down depending on the pile and it's harder to dye resulting in fewer color options to choose from.
• Polyester - durable, easy to clean and resists water-soluble stains; it has a softer, more luxurious feel than other man made fibers, but is less crush resistant and doesn't hold it's fiber height as well as other fibers, so not a good choice for high-traffic areas.
• Acrylic - offers the look and feel of wool without the high price; It's moisture and mildew-resistant and stands up well to stains and fading. However, it doesn't do well in abrasion testing making unsuitable for high-traffic areas.
• Wool - offers superior luxury and performance; wool fibers are very dense and soft to the touch, and they hide soil better than any other fiber. Wool also repels water and is easy to dye, but is not fade-resistant. It's one of the most expensive carpet fibers, but when cared for properly, it will last a long time.
• Blends - blends are tufted with a combination of fibers to take advantage of the desirable features of each the individual fibers; for example, wool/nylon blends combine the luxurious look and feel of wool with the durability of nylon.
• PET (polyethylene terephthalate) - made from recycled plastics, durable and water and static-resistant; however, it's not as comfortable as other types of carpet.

Fibers should be attached to a good backing that will hold the fibers tightly. Most carpet backings consist of a primary layer through which the fibers are threaded and a secondary backing that's glued to the primary backing to hold the fibers securely to prevent them from getting loose.

What is PAR?
PAR stands for Performance Appearance Rating; this rating makes it easy to compare the durability of different carpets. The PAR number encompasses information about fiber, density, construction and stain resistance and is helpful in determining not only durability but how well the surface appearance of the carpet will hold up under the traffic of an average four-person household during the first year after installation. A PAR rating of 4 to 5 indicates a high performance carpet that will look new longer.

Carpet Installation

Installing carpet requires knowledge, technical ability, and the right tools – if you want to save your back and your sanity, professional installation is recommended.

There are two types of carpet installation: glue down and stretch in.

• Glue down installation - uses adhesives and can be direct glue down or double glue down. Direct glue down adheres the carpet directly to the subfloor; double glue down adheres padding to the subfloor and then adheres the carpet to the padding. In direct glue down installations, it's important that the sublfoor be in good condition free of any cracks, depressions or protrusions as they may show through as well as cause uneven wear. The adhesive used should be in accordance with the manufacturer's specifications.
• Stretch-in installation - uses tack strips along the perimeter of the room to stretch and secure the carpet over padding; the amount of stretch may differ depending on the carpet backing, so the manufacturer's recommendations for amount of stretch should be followed. Inadequate stretching can result in wrinkling and buckling. The Carpet and Rug Institute requires the use of a power stretcher when performing this type of installation.

A good installer should start by taking exact measurements, noting locations of doors, closets and any angles as well as noting any existing damage to walls, furniture, etc.

The location and number of seams as wells the direction the carpet will lay should be agreed upon by you and the installer. Seams should be kept to a minimum and should be avoided in high-traffic areas. If seams are located in a high-trafficked area, they should run parallel to the flow of traffic. How visible the seams will be after installation will depend on the type of the carpet and how well it's installed.

For detailed specifications on the proper installation of residential carpeting, see The Carpet and Rug Institute's Standard for Installation of Residential Carpet.

Carpet Padding

Good padding plays a key role in the durability of your carpet; it helps absorb the impact of traffic as well as adds insulation and reduces noise. It also makes a carpet feel more luxurious and comfortable under foot. Studies show that carpets installed without padding, loose thickness and pile height faster than those installed with padding.

There are two different classes of carpet padding: class 1 and class 2.

• Class 1 is appropriate for light to moderate traffic, such as in living rooms, dining rooms and bedrooms.
• Class 2 is heavier duty and recommended for heavy-traffic areas, such as halls and stairs.

In general, a denser pad means better quality; density is rated by pounds per cubic foot. A pad that is at least 5lb and 3/8" thick is recommended for light traffic areas; a pad that is at least 6.5lb with the same thickness is recommended for high-traffic areas. If your budget allows, go with the highest density pad you can afford for longer wear.

Carpet pad is made from a variety of materials, including foam, rubber and fiber.

• Rebond padding - the most common type of padding used in the flooring industry; it's made up from scrap foam left over from the furniture industry and comes in several thicknesses and densities.
• Slab rubber padding - an excellent choice for high-traffic areas; a 19lb slab rubber pad is similar in feel to a 7lb rebond pad, but resists furniture indentation and crushing longer than rebond.
• Frothed foam padding - also referred to as frothed polyurethane, is one of the best carpet pads on the market today; it's similar to memory foam in that when it is squeezed or crushed, it bounces back. It's also mildew and mold resistant and doesn't retain odors. Frothed foam is eco-friendly as well because it emits low VOCs and can be recycled at the end of its life.
• Fiber padding - made from a variety of materials, such as jute, hair mixed with jute, synthetic fibers and even recycled textile fibers; it's often used under area rugs, commercial carpeting and berber carpet.

Not all types of padding are appropriate for all types of carpeting. Carpets today have specific requirements when it comes to which kind of pad to use. Be sure to follow the manufacturer's guidelines when selecting your carpet pad – if you don't, you risk voiding your carpet's warranty.

Costs and Maintenance

Carpet prices vary based on material, quality and style; buy the best carpet you can afford, especially for high-traffic areas. They are typically quoted by the square yard, but most homeowners calculate their space by the square foot. If you're trying to estimate how much carpeting for a 100 square foot bedroom will cost, take the square yard price of the carpet and divide it by 9 - this will give the equivalent price per square foot. For example, if you select a $27 per square yard carpet, it would be $3 per square foot – multiplied by 100 square feet – carpet materials will cost $300, plus padding and installation.

According to www.carpet.org, carpets range from $8 per square yard for olefin and as much as $70 per square yard or more for wools and luxury carpets; installation and padding can cost an additional $5 to $10 per square yard.

In order to maintain the appearance of your carpet as well as its longevity, it's important to vacuum regularly; some manufacturers suggest vacuuming one day per week for every person in the household. Steam cleaning is recommended every one to two years.

Stain removal is also an important step in maintaining the overall appearance of your carpet. There are many commercial stain removing products on the market and most manufacturers have hotlines you can call for stain removing tips.

Because it's best to treat stains right after they happen, if you don't happen to have any of the commercial products on hand, there are several homemade solutions you can try:

• Club soda works on most stains and is great for red wine stains.
• Nail polish remover made of Amyl Acetate (do not use polish remover on acetate fiber).
• 1 cup of lukewarm water and 1/4 teaspoon of mild liquid laundry detergent (non-bleach and non-lanolin, such as Woolite).
• 2 tablespoons household ammonia and 1 cup of water (apply the ammonia solution before the vinegar solution).
• 1 cup white vinegar and 2 cups water (apply the ammonia solution before the vinegar solution).

Never soak the carpet with the cleaning solution, instead apply the solution to a cloth and start blotting working your way from the outside edge of the stain. Don't scrub as this may spread the stain and damage the carpet fibers. If the stain is stubborn, it may be time to call in the professionals.